Monday, October 22, 2007

Hanging around Rishikesh

Well, yesterday was an interesting day, and the longer I stay in Rishikesh it gets even more interesting. Apparently, yesterday there was a big feast, where everyone around it ended up bathed in colorful powders. At the end, this big statue of a girl was burned up in the Ganges, where afterwards everyone would bath. Fireworks, flames, music and chantting was everywhere. Really nice.

So after talking with the people from Corbett I headed back to my hostel to get a bite, where I met these Bilbao people, not very pleased with their trip I think. Spaniards...

Anyhow, after my usual aftereating cigarette, went up to my room to read a bit, where I met with Dean, my South African neighbour. With him, I also met Deborah, from Switzerland, and whatever her name is spelled (girl from Canada). The Canadian girl, Dean and me headed to the most chilling out place in Rishikesh, where you can get beer if ordered in advance. Apparently it's prohibited to drink as Rishikesh is considered a Holy place. Joints come and go, and though tourists there aren't really sociable, I met Matt and Roberto, from Chicago and Mexico respectively.

Today we all had breakfast together, or somehow togethere, as we kept joining at diferent times, and afterwards, some of us headed towards a waterfall that was supposed to be half an hour walking from the hostel we are at. On the way we met with 2 Irani girls that decided to try out luck with the waterfalls as well, though their intention was to go to the beach. Anyhow, after not finding the place I decided to get back for some photo downloading, due to several demanding petitions for photographs of the trip around here. The rest decided to keep on with the waterfall search.

I've just seen Deborah, who is behind me at another computer, exhausted of so much walking and the sun heating pretty fiercely, and it happened they didn't find the waterfalls as they kept asking and everyone said it was farther and farther.

Anyway, today I have to make up my mind with the Corbett decision, and if I'm in time I might go on a yoga class, you never know, it might be cool after all!!

Working in Corbett

After more than 1 hour waitting, the couple from the Corbett Reserve got to the Red Chilli Office. They are a very nice couple, that gave me a realistic insight on what going around in Parks around India.

First of all, they are all ruled by the Indian Goverment, which was obvious. Secondly, they advised me that the only way to work in conservation programmes is through ONG's or Universities. The second option is discarded, and the first one, well I'd probably could make it paying them a whole bunch of money.

What they offered me? Well, I'll start with what they do at the Resort. The camp get clients from around the world and India and provides them with excursions or safaris, call it however you please to. So working there would consist on helping in the camp work, such as cleaning, making beds and stuff, and learning how to be a guide, which would be identifying animals as well as spotting and traccking them.

For that to happen you usually have to stay a whole season, which lasts from November to June.

So this is what happened: They actually seemed interested in letting me be there, though they were not sure about it as my Visa end in february. That would force tehm to look for someone else afterwards. On my side, I'm not really sure I want to go for that right now, though it looks like really cool stuff to learn.

So after pretty much thinking, I thought that it wouldn't be fare neither for them, for me, or for the person comming afterwards. For them, as they would need someone else once I left. For me, because I wouldn't finish what I started and I don't know how much would I end up learning. And for the guy comming afterwards because he would hardly have time to start learning well.

At the meantime, I think it's a possibility for the following year acocrding what goes on with my life at that moment, and I could get back and go for a volunteering Visa for longer time instead of a tourist one, which would let me be there the whole season, finish what I started and have a good time as well perhaps.

It still does look like a good thing to do, and I'm not sure if I'm making the right decision by not doing so, but I think it's the best and fairest thing to do.

Sunday, October 21, 2007

New Horizons

So why was going trekking the second best decision done? On the first place, because of the sensation of a free life style, the views of the spectacular Himalyan Range just in front of you, being in India, without all its chaos surrounding you. Higly recomendable!

On the second place, I met Erin and Arvind. Erin might provide me with a contact working on a National Park south in Chennai. It looks like a very interesting contact to get to.

On the other hand, Arvind has already arrange it for me to meet today this couple working on a resort in the Corbett Tiger Reserve. It seems interesting, though I have to know what working there might offer me, so we'll see today!

The Kuari Pass - Back to Rishikesh

Back in Rishikesh we decided Red Chilli Adventure would arrange us a place to stay, as it was pretty late, and risky to go with your bagpack looking for a place to stay, when probably all would be full, specially in the area I intented to go to.

So we got to the office, and as tired as we were, and with the previous hangover, we had more rum and whiskey waitting for us. After a couple of hours drinking, you could feel you were part of the Red Chilli family, talking with the raft and trekking guides. A great sensation.

The Kuari Pass - The Party

So we got to Joshimath after having to change our plans and a whole series of unfortunate situations that delayed our arrival.

The Mount View Hotel is a pretty comfortable hotel with TV and hot showers. The manager is a tiny guy, I'm serious, half my size, and I'm small. So we stayed at the third floor, a third floor was surprisingly harder to get there than the Kuari Pass, as my knee was aching hell. However, some TV and a hot shower compensated the effort.

When I finally got to the dinning area of the hotel, at about 7 p.m., my surprise was to instead of seeing tea cups, there were rum cups everywhere. I though it was a bit early to start drinking, but what the fuck!! So we drank, we ate, and we kept on drinking till 1 a.m., singing and laughing accompanied the night as well.

It was a very pleasant night!!

Saturday, October 20, 2007

The Kuari Pass - The Knee

On the forth day of trekking my right knee decided it had had enough and it started hurting pretty much. On the way to the campsite just below the Kuari Pass I had to get a bamboo stick to help me get there. So once there I decided to create a stick for the following days.

One of the horsemen provided me with a stick, but it was really uncomfortable to hold and let the pressure get to the stick and not your leg. So I though I needed an appropiate handle I could lean to properly. And taht's what all my evening consisted on. Getting an adequate branch, cutting it, shapping it, and finally sticking it to the stick.

Well, I must admit I did a great job on that, though I somehow knew it wasn't going to last the rest of the trek.

So the next day was the day for crossing the Kuari Pass. It started with a steep hill up to the pass, where the stick worked very well. We kept on along the snow, where the stick kept on in a good shape, until walking along a riff I sliped and broke. I managed to save the stick for a while, but it needed more effort to maintain the handle in its place than just walking with the stick, so I decided to separate them.

The rest of the rute was very slippery, muddy, and difficult to get by, with constant up and downs and no plain path. Hardly being able to bent my knee, MEN!!! That was hard to get through!!!

Somehow, I overcame the difficulty and made it to the campsite, I must say, exhausted!

Once there though, it was all worth it!

The Kuari Pass - Our previous campsite




After climbing to the Kuari Pass, we found ourselves inmerse in mountains and mountains of snow. Walking through the snow was lots of fun and lots of making photos. However, after the snow, came the mud, rocks, and difficult paths.

We finally made it to an spectacular campsite situated at about 3500 m of altitude, were you could see this amazing views. Mountain peaks covered with snow and clouds making them misterious and even more wonderful.

In the evening it started snowing, and apparently it snowed all night, cause I woke up at 5:00 a.m. with Paul stumbling the tent to get the snow out of the roof. It seemed Pual had waken up with the tent on his face. 6.8 feet isn't easy to fit in a tent, specially if it has crushed halfway down. So about 6:00 I woke up again to get the 20 cm depth of snow out, but from the outside with merely a stick.

We woke up again at about 7 a.m. by Choki's voice offering us Chai in our tent. I thought he was telling us that tea was ready and we could go there at any time, but he had the tea with him and was waiting for us to open the tent to handed it to us. What a great gesture I thought.

So the morning was freazing, and once the sun came a bit through the clouds, I couldn't stay with my eyes opened as it was everything so shinny from the snow surrounding us. After breakfast our guide talked us about the bad weather conditions and that it could get worse so we all decided to go under the snow line and camp somewhere else.

The Kuari Pass - Some day in the trek

Actually two days to go back to Rishikesh. The next day we are heading towards a Tapovan where we will have to wait for a car to drive us to Joshimath, where we will spend a night at a Hotel. The next day will be a long ride to Rishikesh...

This day was supposed to be a day off, with a two hour volunteer trek around the area we were camping at. Unfortunately weather conditions made us have to look for another place, so we walked along with the mules and the horsemen.

The new campsite is OK, less colder and plenty of wildlife to see. We could even see Langurs, for which I had to struggle around the forest to take a close picture of them. They seem to be very shy.

That night two of the horsemen had run to Joshimath to get some rum and whiskey and some lamb meat. Unfortunately, no rum came along, and I don't like whiskey, but I sticked to the meat which was deliciously cooked in a very spicy gravy Arvind had prepared.

The Kuari Pass - Personal thought II

I have certainly done a lot of listening these days talking with english speaking people. At the end of the day my english got much poorer so I just listened to the conversations going on, saying something from time to time. Days were very tiring, everyday more worse than the other, so talking wasn't my strong point. So the good thing is that I have learned new words and expressions, and probably got a bit more fluent in my english.

The Kuari Pass - Day 3

After a hard night, with dogs barking and chasing each other all night long, bells sounding from everywhere, Paul snoring and the Indian army, apparently not sleeping and crushing against our tents constantly, I wasn't in the best conditions to be as nice with the morning kids, which I totally ignored.

So at 8 a.m. I got out of the tent for a couple of toast, as I had eaten so much the night before, and couldn't get anything else in my mouth. None of us had had hardly slept that night so we were all pretty tired.

However, the trek had to go on. The beginning was very steep and hard and only after the first break could I regain my breath and energy and keep up with the group. We passed through an Himalyan Oak forest and saw spectacular views of the snowy peaks surrounding us. I finally understood what it was meant with a breathtaking view, you had to loose it to get to see it.

Arrival to the camp was about a quarter past three. We would all like to go to sleep, though that wouldn't have been a very good idea, as we probably would have to go to sleep very early as there was nothing to do once the night came at 6 p.m.

It was our first rainny night with icestones falling, so we went to sleep hoping that would not turn out being another sleeping disturbance.

The Kuari Pass - Food

So it happened to be a vegetarian trip around India. Yeap, no meat at all, and as many of you may know, I'm definately not a veggie guy. Nevertheless, I must admit food was just absolutely great. all was very tasty and it had this homemade camp style that was just awesome.

Indian food has a notorious fame for its spices, and yes, well gained. Even tea is spicy, from Chai to Yogi tea.

Breakfast: After morning tea, came breakfast. Toast, with butter, pineapple jam, nutella, honey, etc. With the toast we had from french toast with french fries, to this kind of indian stew, to banana and nutella pancakes.

Lunch: Arvind usually carried with our lunch, which seemed to be very heavy. We had different kind of rice, spaghetti, penne (both indian style) and some kind of stew with chapatti. All great. I always missed the frequent boiled eggs though.

Dinner: It always consisted on a first course, which was soup (from tomato soup to very spicy ones - undrinkable!!); a second, third and forth course, that consisted of so many dishes I just can't recall!! Most of the days we had Indian food, and a couple of nights it turned out to be Italian night and Chinese night, when they even did spring rolls!!! Delicious!! And finally dessert, usually something done with banana, apple or orange.

But that wasn't all the food we had!! Everyday after each day trek we had some biscuits with tea ready in the table. Just incredible!!!

I know some people who would definately be very pleased with so much food!!

The Kuari Pass - Day 2



Night time arrives very early here in India, at about 6 p.m. So we went to sleep very early as well. That meant that at 6a.m. I couldn't sleep, so I woke up. It was nice, as our camping site was a cute nice area next to a river full of goat and sheep shit.

At 6:30, as every morning in the trek, we had coffee and tea ready, and after so much tea I had to go pee constantly. So that first night I had to get up in the middle ofthe night, to what our guide called a "little job". Once in action, it suddenly struck me the following question: What kind of animals roam around here? So all this big mammals appeared in my mind and I definately freaked out, finished my little job as quick as I could and went straight to my tent, as if in there I would be safer!!!

So the day went along walking and making pictures of magnificent views and wildlife and stopping at the village of lower ghuni to eat, ending up above upper Ghuni at 2400 m high. It had been a 3 to 4 hour trek day, so it had been just fine.

The second campsite was full of mules and cow bells sounding from every side of the area. It wasn't a pleasant campsite as the first day, as it was full of foreigners. Even a Spanish group making a lot of noise, as always - Spaniards!! Indian army trekkers were also around, all suited up, and being very noisy and unrespectfull. The place was next to a village, so foreigners made the attention to kids from the village, always asking for something, standing next to you and asking the same questions: Where from, and name. I guess that was the only thing they knew how to say. Tryed to be as nice as I can be...

The Kuari Pass - Personal thoughts I

I wasn't sure whether I was going to fit in the group, and I must admit I sometimes felt out of it as they spoke so fast and there are so many words I don't know, I couldn't get into all the conversations. However, I think I fit in enough to get along pretty well.

Nevertheless, staying out of the conversations was relaxing from time to time, and I have a great ability for that.

The Kuari Pass - Day 1

The trak I got into was named the Kuari Pass. It apparently consisted in crossing it, though I had no idea what did I get myself into.

So I woke up at 6 a.m. in the morning, as my watch kept on changing the time, so I didn;t really know what time was it and I had to get to the Red Chilli Adventure office at 7:30 a.m. Afetr some tee, I went to the meeting point, to learn I had a complete breakfast waitting for me.

There, I met Arvind, our guide, a showman!! A very funny guy with a lot of sarcasm. A party man doing his ideal job, and you could just see he loved it.

The other members of the trek were also there, except for Erin, whom had gone on another trek days before and we had to meet her at some othe point on the way to the starting point. Paul is a 6.8 feet tall english guy from Sheffield with a very expresive face. And Grainne (pronounced like Gronya or Granya) is funny north irish woman, always laughing at everything.

The 3 of us, Arvind, the cheff, Choky (who seemed to be a great singer) and the driver left to Ghat, however at Chevna we had to change of jeep due to road conditions.

After a long ride full of excitement because of the roads, I did my first camping night in India.

Red Chilli Adventure

http://www.redchilliadventure.com/

A great family!!!

Composed by Indian and foreign guides. Indians do the trekking and foreigners stick to rafting trips. You can meet people from around the world (Wales, England, Norway, US) that keep on moving from one rafting company to another. Just great!!!

Second best decision made

After two days in Rishikesh, didn't know what to do next. Didn't feel like going to another stumbling city, full with noise, cow shit, and people getting on your and trying to get your money in some way or another, so contrary to my ways, I decided to go on a 9 day trekking through the Indian mountains next to the Himalayan Range.

And wasn't that great....

Homeland of Yoga and Meditation

You could say Rishikesh is the Meca of Yoga and Meditation. Full of Ashrams, everyone I've spoken to has at least taken or intending to take a yoga class. I'm no way interested in that whatsoever.

Anyway, I must admit that getting to Rishikesh wasn't more comforting than getting to Haridwar, but it was to late for any other bus, and didn't really know where to go, so I had no choice at all but to stay there for a while. So I decided to stay at a place in High Bank, which seemed to be the most peacefull place in Rishikesh, according to the lonely planet guide. And hell it was!!!! No sounds at all, no horn, all services you could desire, just great!!!

I couldn't stay at the chosen place, so I had to look for somewhere else. Didn't had to look for much, the second place I went to, Stay Well Swiss Cottage, offered me a double bedroom with hot water for 200 Rs. For those who don't know, doesn't get to 4 Euros.

Divided by the Ganges, Rishikesh has 3 main areas. You have downtown Rishikesh, which sucks!! Lakshman Jhula and Swarg Ashram which are worth visiting. Joinning one part of Rishikesh to the other you have two pedestrian bridges, where other than pedestrians you can also find monkeys, cows and motorcycles. So you have to watch out, specially for the last ones. Monkeys can get very annoying, but so far I haven't had any problem with them.

A great decision

Leaving Ramnagar was pretty easy, specially if you plan to get out of there in the morning. Buses to Haridwar, my intented destination, left every hour, so I got the 10 o'clock bus. Few people in the bus, so I got a priviledged place in the front, noone bothering me and with total control of my back.

What I didn't know was that the bus was going to take about 6 hours to get to Haridwar. Looking at the map it seemed a very short distance, but apparently it went the long, long and long way.

Getting a bus in India is not as delightfull as a first class wagon with AC. And if you go in the front seats you can get pretty scared. Definately, Indians are very lucky people, great drivers, and whatever god they believe in, it definately works!!! I saw my life in jeopardy at least 10 times on the way to Haridwar. After this bus trip, however, I got used to it.

So time seemed not to pass, and I urgently needed a bathroom. However, didn't dare to get out of the bus as I didn't know how long the stops took, and was worried about my backpack.

Finally we got to Haridwar, and that seemed hell, specially after such a long journey to get there. So I made the best decision since I'm in India, get the following bus to Rishikesh!!

Monday, October 8, 2007

Noisy Ramnagar

Got this morning with an hour delay from Delhi to Ramnagar. I was grateful for the delay as the sun had appeeared a while ago. Out of the station was a line of rickshaws ready to get new costumers. Due to my experience in Delhi airport, I decided to stop to smoke a cigarette. People seemed somehow astonished I didn't move looking for transportation, more astonished even when I told them I first wanted to finish my cigarette.

Finally, I got a rickshaw that got me to the Anand Hotel. There seemed to be cheaper places around, but I definately needed a hot shower and a poo, so I thought this would be OK. And I must admitt the owner is more than helpful.

So when I got here, the first sensation was of an agricultural little town. And it fact, part of it is. The other part, I don't know what they do for a living, but it's obviously outdoors and with honks. Thought I left those behind in Delhi, but apparently the only busy street of Ramnagar produces much more noise than the street were my hostel was back in Delhi.

So imaging my relief once in the Reserve. Who cared if I didn't see any tiers, I just wanted some peace!

Anyway, surpringsingly, Ramnagar has at least two Internet places. One works best than the other, and that is the one in the same side as the Hotel Anand, where I'm staying at. Though they both have server problems...as seems to be usual in India.

Corbett Tiger Reserve



Well, to get into the reserve, first you have to contact with a jeep. Jeeps cost around 800 Rs, but you can bargain till 700. Afterwards, you go to the Corbett Center and fill a form. If you're going for a 2 hour day "safari" then you'll have to pay 205 Rs plus 175 for the guide, which seems to be compulsory.

I don't know about the elephant trip or the 3 day stay, but the day trip is not bad. However, if your comming from Delhi, don't loose you're time staying in Ramnagar, go directly to the Corbett center, get your jeep and your safari, and by noon you're out of there.

What can you see, well, I can tell what I saw. No, no, I can't because I couldn't understand what my guide said. The only thing I know I saw, were spotted Deer, two different kind of Monkeys (Langurs and red monkey), more spotted Deer, Tiger tracks, and many kinds of birds and insects. The landscape is pretty interesting, and no, it's not dissapointing. Specially if you want to get out of noisy Ramnagar.

My first Indian train

I thought it would ended up being a great adventure, and it actually was very easy to get. You just get in the train station as a deapth guy would, and wait until your train appears on the monitor. Once you've located the track, you go for your coach if the train has arrived.

Pretty simple.

However, be sure of the time of your destination, as other passengers might confuse you.

Simple uncomfortable trip, but no because of the facilities, but because of my enormous bag which didn't let me in the bed.

Leaving Delhi

I must admit, I haven't fallen in love with Delhi, nor with India by the meantime, eventhough it is what I expected. The thing is, that it hasn't surprised me in any good way. I guess you should be that informed of the places. Or perhaps it's my fault most probably, I haven't let it enchant me.

Anyway, I told you Old Delhi was like an antfarm. Not exactly with tis words, but the idea is the same. Well at night fellows, it's something else. There's still people around, a lot, I must say, buy the colors, the lights, even the Red Fort seems impresive. Of course all seen from a taxi gains another perpective.

Why was I in a taxi? Easy! I was heading to the Old Delhi Train Station, and I thought it was the best way to get there. Yes I could've taken a rickshaw probably, but that was too complicated. OK, it wasn't that complicated, bug off!!!!

Meetting in Delhi



Phillipe and his german friend, Mike from Canada, Laura from Ireland, Dan from north Ireland, Ernst from Austria, and this french duy I can't remember his name.

Laura and Dan met some time ago, for two days in Argentina, and they met on purpose again here in Delhi. Curious couple, always drinking beer, but I wouldn't like to stereotype.

Phillipe and his friend were travelling for a while and ended there journey in Delhi. Ready to start their new semester. Phillipe is a great guy, he gave me his filters as he had no more rolling tobacco and he was going back. Oh yes, and some paper, also usefull.

Mike, is a great guy, gave good tips and had travelled alot for his young age. We probably meet again in Katmandu along with Ernst, who is going there to study don't know what for about 6 months if I recall correctly.

Oh, and the french guy. Cool person, we went together around Delhi as we were both travelling alone. I urged for some company as I couldn't really get into the city, so that helped me out. He ate so much Mc Donalds, that got me into it. Damm!!

Delhi

I read in VirtualTourist that Delhi was a chaos that worked, well, to tell you the truth, NO, it doesn't work, this can't be working!!

So yes, Delhi is an absolute chaos. Though at the beginning everything seemed pretty simple, at the airport I mean. After passing through the passport control, getting my bag pretty easily and fast, changing money and getting a pre-paid taxi at an official stand, everything seemed cool. The flight had been excellent, good food, personal TV, where you could choose what to see and when to see it, just great.

So the inferno started when getting out of the airport area. Yeap, cars everywhere, the discontinous line had absolutely no meaning at all. On a 3 lane road, you could see 5 rows of cars. Everyone honking all the time, there was no order at all.

Begging didn't lasted too much to arrive. We stopped at a traffic light, apparently they do respect those... And this kid with funny colonial brittish mustache started making acrobacies next to my taxi. Right away started begging for money. I saw it comming, so I didn't even looked at what he was doing. I knew I had to be prepared for a lot of this, and surprisingly, I was. No feeling at all came to me. And I must admit the kid was really cute and funny with that black mustache that covered most of his face, but I had no problem in saying no. Will I find some humanity lost hell knows where in India, or will I leave untreated?

Anyway, chaos, chaos and more chaos. After the second scam, I was so tired after the plane and the new atmosphere, I didn't feel like investigating the city, so I decided to stay all the day in my room until the next day. So let's say that day 1, was one day after arriving, when I did a 3 hour walk on Connaught Place.

This kid tried to get me into this mall, which I didn't as I need to buy nothing. And so many others tried to get me into a rickshaw, which is an everyday hastle. The best of day two was getting back to the hostel and meetting with all this bunch of people.

Day 2 started direction to the main bazaar with the french guy, followed by the Red Fort and the New Delhi Train Station, where I bought my ticket to go to Ramnagar, north of Delhi.

One thing you have to know about Red Fort, well actually two. First, it;s in Old Delhi, and 2, if you think New Delhi is overcrowded, forget about it, Old Delhi is. To get an example, imagen sales, people awaitting for the stores to open, and the marabunta of people getting in. Furthe more, Xmas, and all those people doing the last minute shops, all in a hurry, worried because time passes by. Well, it sort of the same, but even worse, and without the time factor. DREADFUL!

Scams: Part II


Once past my first scam, I had to succumb to next the one, which was getting a double bedded room instead of a single one, though they were singles free. Fortunately, the next day I got a single room.

Sunday, October 7, 2007

Scams: Part I

Anyway, first things first... I got here on the 4th of October to discover that the scams the Lonely Planet talked about were true. I got a prepaid taxi, innocently thinking the taxi driver would let me at my desired hostel. Well fellows, it turned out the guy got me to one of the never ending false tourist offices where I had to argue with two guys, that I just wanted to go to my hostel and rest. After getting out of the cab and getting my stuff, ready to walk around looking for my hostel, they decided that they would let me next to the street that would direct me there, which it did.

Wednesday, October 3, 2007

Leaving to India

Well, there I go, in a few hours I'm heading to Delhi, capital of one of the richest countries in sensations, flavours, amd smells.

Hope you follow me around this trip, and be able to sense what I see, feel and, definately, experiment. I'll try to show you the people, its costums, its food and drinks, its landscape, and anything available to see, feel or taste.

As a starter, I'm leaving from London at 22:00 on a 3rd of October of 2007, not knowing when I'm getting back. I should get to Delhi at about 12:00 on the 4th of October, and then this new experience will start.

Stay tuned!!

With love,

Erik