I have talked about gay experiences, all related with Dan. Diu, however, needs a post for itself on this matter. I've already introduced George. He's gay. And he runs a guest house attached to a church. The church is not being used at the time being. He is also Christian. Normal in this area as it was a Portuguese colony.
All his fellow workers and friends are also gay. On the barbecue I had there, I saw this guy with long hair in a pony tail, a dedicated moustache with a red bathrobe. Not only gay, but mannered.
The disco, which I'll talk about later on, was 3/4 of the same. And so are the beaches. Specially Sunset Point. The most common question they would ask you was whether you wanted to take a swim with them. That's why when they looked at you, you weren't sure if they were doing so in a lustful way or not. Definitely the place to experience what most women experience in India in general.
You may understand now, why when all those young lads were looking at me at the beach felt so uncomfortable. Xavi, knowing the situation, even asked them if I was hot. Damned!
Sunday, January 13, 2008
Barbeques
Wood, fresh fish and vegetables, and a good beach to chill out. About every two days, George prepares barbecues at his guest house. However, if you don't want to pay 150 Rs. for it, you can as well prepare one for yourself at Sunset Point. Ours cost 127 Rs. and a lot of vegetables weren't eaten.
At George's, I tasted shark for my first time. While some parts were really good, others had a strange flavor and were too spongy for my taste. The fish menu on the one we had consisted of King Fish and prawns. Without a doubt much better as we seasoned it with tomatoes, onion, coriander, garlic and salt and pepper. Delicious.
The best part of preparing a barbecue is obviously the gathering around the fire, the preparation of the food. Everyone helped as they new. The King Fish was bought the night before at the night fish market. Jim went to get it the next day, already scaled and cut. Lien and Xavi went for the prawns; Bill and I went in the mission of searching for wood, and the rest bought the vegetables, forks, plates, foil, and whatever needed. Everything well coordinated, and everyone willing to help. A wonderful experience of communal living.
At George's, I tasted shark for my first time. While some parts were really good, others had a strange flavor and were too spongy for my taste. The fish menu on the one we had consisted of King Fish and prawns. Without a doubt much better as we seasoned it with tomatoes, onion, coriander, garlic and salt and pepper. Delicious.
The best part of preparing a barbecue is obviously the gathering around the fire, the preparation of the food. Everyone helped as they new. The King Fish was bought the night before at the night fish market. Jim went to get it the next day, already scaled and cut. Lien and Xavi went for the prawns; Bill and I went in the mission of searching for wood, and the rest bought the vegetables, forks, plates, foil, and whatever needed. Everything well coordinated, and everyone willing to help. A wonderful experience of communal living.
Friday, January 11, 2008
The neighborhood
I ended up staying two weeks in Diu, as I have said before. Many reasons to this fact, but the main one was the people I had met there.
I arrived on a Thursday with Pedro and was planning to head to Mumbai on Monday or Tuesday the most, as the final destination was Goa, and I didn't want to get there to late. But I didn't want to miss Mumbai either.
Pedro left, and I wasn't ready to leave. I had not booked nothing yet, and I got a blister from my new flip-flops. So I got Xavi to share the six-bedded room I got with Pedro, planning to stay there for no more than a couple of days. But the idea of having a TV and being able to watch the Barcelona - Real Madrid football match struck me as very appealing, as probably I would not get a TV in Mumbai. So I decided to stay until Sunday at least.
Suddenly, it was almost X-Mas, which meant that if I wanted to head to Mumbai before Goa I would have to hurry. And, remember shanti, shanti? Well, I thought of going directly to Goa and skip Mumbai. The only possibility to do so was getting a train from Verala directly to Goa on the next Thursday, which meant two weeks in awesome Diu without even noticing it.
But as I said, the people I kept meeting there were the main reason. All those excuses, of seeing the football match, the blister, or whatever would not have stopped me if the people around me weren't worth it.
I already mentioned Xavi from Manresa and Ovi and Helena from Alicante. All the Spaniards used to do their way, and I saw Xavi basically because we were sharing a room. It was really easy to talk with him, and we were very sincere to each other. Besides, I must admit that having the possibility to talk in Catalan with the assurance that the rest of the group will not understand you is quiet interesting.
The rest of the group was kind of already made up when I got there, and I met most of them at the Spanish omelet day Xavi had planned. Pedro was still there, and though Xavi said no help was needed, between the three of us managed 3 huge potato and onion omelets. on this, I might introduce Lien, who helped on the cutting and slicing of tomatoes, potatoes and onions.
Lien is from the states, but with Vietnamese origins. She was always onto getting the group together to do things. On that same day, I got to meet Bill, who was writing a book; Jim, I always him with the same clothes, and no wonder as his luggage was just a small 15 liter bag; and Patrick, a kiwi, very shanti, shanti spirited.
Later on came Hamish, also from New Zealand and Ovi and Helena, whom I already mentioned. They closed the main group, but Daniel, Bree and Emily also joined us from time to time, and so did some Israelis from our guest house. Most of the occasions where for beers at the rooftop or at some of the reunions held at other guest houses.
Out of all the people I have mentioned, only Hamish and Jim stayed at a different guest house, so Super Silver, the place we where staying at, became like a little neighborhood, where everyone cared for each other. A community of friendly people. Best neighborhood I've ever lived at.
I arrived on a Thursday with Pedro and was planning to head to Mumbai on Monday or Tuesday the most, as the final destination was Goa, and I didn't want to get there to late. But I didn't want to miss Mumbai either.
Pedro left, and I wasn't ready to leave. I had not booked nothing yet, and I got a blister from my new flip-flops. So I got Xavi to share the six-bedded room I got with Pedro, planning to stay there for no more than a couple of days. But the idea of having a TV and being able to watch the Barcelona - Real Madrid football match struck me as very appealing, as probably I would not get a TV in Mumbai. So I decided to stay until Sunday at least.
Suddenly, it was almost X-Mas, which meant that if I wanted to head to Mumbai before Goa I would have to hurry. And, remember shanti, shanti? Well, I thought of going directly to Goa and skip Mumbai. The only possibility to do so was getting a train from Verala directly to Goa on the next Thursday, which meant two weeks in awesome Diu without even noticing it.
But as I said, the people I kept meeting there were the main reason. All those excuses, of seeing the football match, the blister, or whatever would not have stopped me if the people around me weren't worth it.
I already mentioned Xavi from Manresa and Ovi and Helena from Alicante. All the Spaniards used to do their way, and I saw Xavi basically because we were sharing a room. It was really easy to talk with him, and we were very sincere to each other. Besides, I must admit that having the possibility to talk in Catalan with the assurance that the rest of the group will not understand you is quiet interesting.
The rest of the group was kind of already made up when I got there, and I met most of them at the Spanish omelet day Xavi had planned. Pedro was still there, and though Xavi said no help was needed, between the three of us managed 3 huge potato and onion omelets. on this, I might introduce Lien, who helped on the cutting and slicing of tomatoes, potatoes and onions.
Lien is from the states, but with Vietnamese origins. She was always onto getting the group together to do things. On that same day, I got to meet Bill, who was writing a book; Jim, I always him with the same clothes, and no wonder as his luggage was just a small 15 liter bag; and Patrick, a kiwi, very shanti, shanti spirited.
Later on came Hamish, also from New Zealand and Ovi and Helena, whom I already mentioned. They closed the main group, but Daniel, Bree and Emily also joined us from time to time, and so did some Israelis from our guest house. Most of the occasions where for beers at the rooftop or at some of the reunions held at other guest houses.
Out of all the people I have mentioned, only Hamish and Jim stayed at a different guest house, so Super Silver, the place we where staying at, became like a little neighborhood, where everyone cared for each other. A community of friendly people. Best neighborhood I've ever lived at.
Shanti, shanti
Two weeks in Diu have really shown me the meaning of this word. Why twice? An Indian thing I guess.
Hanging around town, visiting things, or going to the beach are such peaceful things in this little island of the Gujarat state. And it's not that you don't get bothered at all, but in a less aggressive manner. One day at the beach, I was laying down with my headphones on, tabbing my fingers to the rhythm of the music and eyes closed. When I open them, this bunch of about 15 kids are surrounding me, staring with curious or who knows what eyes. I asked Xavi how long had they been there, and his answer was "for a while". Fuck sake! He could've said something before.
Despite this incident, if you could call it that way, I never felt bothered at the beach though some Indians have always been around. And anyway, they are all Indian tourists, probably from Mumbai or the rest of the Gujarati state.
The second time at the beach, there was absolutely no one. Ovi decided to take a swim as nature had brought him to life. It feels necessary to add that the beach I'm talking about is about two km long and we were the only group to be seen at all.
So if you have to shanti, shanti in India, Diu is the place.
Hanging around town, visiting things, or going to the beach are such peaceful things in this little island of the Gujarat state. And it's not that you don't get bothered at all, but in a less aggressive manner. One day at the beach, I was laying down with my headphones on, tabbing my fingers to the rhythm of the music and eyes closed. When I open them, this bunch of about 15 kids are surrounding me, staring with curious or who knows what eyes. I asked Xavi how long had they been there, and his answer was "for a while". Fuck sake! He could've said something before.
Despite this incident, if you could call it that way, I never felt bothered at the beach though some Indians have always been around. And anyway, they are all Indian tourists, probably from Mumbai or the rest of the Gujarati state.
The second time at the beach, there was absolutely no one. Ovi decided to take a swim as nature had brought him to life. It feels necessary to add that the beach I'm talking about is about two km long and we were the only group to be seen at all.
So if you have to shanti, shanti in India, Diu is the place.
Merchandising
It's curious how being in Mahatma Gandhi's home state, you get to see more of his ideals. Nevertheless, I must state that I have only been in Diu, which was before part of Goa. So probably this statement is not entirely true, but for sure I'll find out later on.
Diu is just a little island, former Portuguese colony, south of the state of Gujarat. The feeling I have from this place differs totally from that of the rest of India. It's like if had left the country for a while. You do not get harassed, nor you get the feeling of bargaining.
But to keep on with this post, some previous facts are necessary. Since I got to India I wasn't intentioned to trust anyone. And my first experience proved me right. I haven't been able to entirely remove that feeling, and so I get the sensation I'm missing a lot of experiences from those truth hearted.
Gandhi says in his Autobiography: "I went fairly prepared with my subject, which was about observing truthfulness in business. I had always heard the merchants say that truth was not possible in business. I did not think so then, nor do I now. Even today there are merchant friends who contend that truth is inconsistent with business. Business, they say, is a very practical affair, and truth a matter of religion; and they argue that practical affairs are one thing, while religion is quiet another. Pure truth, they hold, is out of question in business, one can speak it only so far as is suitable. I strongly contested the position in my speech and awakened the merchants to a sense of their duty, which was two-fold. Their responsibility to be truthful was all the greater in a foreign land, because the conduct of a few Indians was the measure of that of the millions of their fellow-country men."
From the moment Indians see me as a walking Euro, as a possible business, I'm to take notice of Gandhi's words and trust no local. As long as I'm not able to discern who is just curious from those with dollar signs in their eyes, I won't be able to travel free around India. And even in such a peaceful place like Diu where curiosity overtakes business, I can't feel free, but it is obviously an Oasis from untruth.
Diu is just a little island, former Portuguese colony, south of the state of Gujarat. The feeling I have from this place differs totally from that of the rest of India. It's like if had left the country for a while. You do not get harassed, nor you get the feeling of bargaining.
But to keep on with this post, some previous facts are necessary. Since I got to India I wasn't intentioned to trust anyone. And my first experience proved me right. I haven't been able to entirely remove that feeling, and so I get the sensation I'm missing a lot of experiences from those truth hearted.
Gandhi says in his Autobiography: "I went fairly prepared with my subject, which was about observing truthfulness in business. I had always heard the merchants say that truth was not possible in business. I did not think so then, nor do I now. Even today there are merchant friends who contend that truth is inconsistent with business. Business, they say, is a very practical affair, and truth a matter of religion; and they argue that practical affairs are one thing, while religion is quiet another. Pure truth, they hold, is out of question in business, one can speak it only so far as is suitable. I strongly contested the position in my speech and awakened the merchants to a sense of their duty, which was two-fold. Their responsibility to be truthful was all the greater in a foreign land, because the conduct of a few Indians was the measure of that of the millions of their fellow-country men."
From the moment Indians see me as a walking Euro, as a possible business, I'm to take notice of Gandhi's words and trust no local. As long as I'm not able to discern who is just curious from those with dollar signs in their eyes, I won't be able to travel free around India. And even in such a peaceful place like Diu where curiosity overtakes business, I can't feel free, but it is obviously an Oasis from untruth.
Spaniards
On my trips around India I haven't been too interested in meeting Spaniards. I'm of the thought that if I wanted to hang out with them, I'd perhaps stayed in Spain.
However, luck has disposed otherwise. On my last two days in Udaipur I run up into a Catalan guy, who had studied in the same school I had when I was in Lleida. What's more interesting, he knew people that where at my class and so I got to know a little bit about their lives in the present time. Speaking in Catalan was easier than speaking in Spanish. When I tried this, is as if I couldn't get my accent back and it felt strange.
While this guy was off to Bundi, I was heading to Rajkot the same day. On the long waiting for the bus, a guy from Madrid, Pedro, ran up into me. Apparently, we were going to the same place, and that would turn up good, economically speaking. But our ways should separate soon and instead of getting a room for myself when he left Diu, I ended up sharing a room with Xavi, a cool guy from Manresa. For my surprise, Diu was full of Spaniards. The same day I got there with Pedro, we met Xavi and two girls from Madrid. The girls departed the following day, but soon enough, they were substituted by a Spanish couple from Alicante, Ovi and Helena.
So this meant a lot of Spanish in a few days. I wasn't fond of it, but I must admit it felt good to practice the language. After all, there was sure enough time for English later on.
However, luck has disposed otherwise. On my last two days in Udaipur I run up into a Catalan guy, who had studied in the same school I had when I was in Lleida. What's more interesting, he knew people that where at my class and so I got to know a little bit about their lives in the present time. Speaking in Catalan was easier than speaking in Spanish. When I tried this, is as if I couldn't get my accent back and it felt strange.
While this guy was off to Bundi, I was heading to Rajkot the same day. On the long waiting for the bus, a guy from Madrid, Pedro, ran up into me. Apparently, we were going to the same place, and that would turn up good, economically speaking. But our ways should separate soon and instead of getting a room for myself when he left Diu, I ended up sharing a room with Xavi, a cool guy from Manresa. For my surprise, Diu was full of Spaniards. The same day I got there with Pedro, we met Xavi and two girls from Madrid. The girls departed the following day, but soon enough, they were substituted by a Spanish couple from Alicante, Ovi and Helena.
So this meant a lot of Spanish in a few days. I wasn't fond of it, but I must admit it felt good to practice the language. After all, there was sure enough time for English later on.
Thursday, January 10, 2008
Buses
Getting a bus in India is always a lottery. It doesn't matter if you take a local bus or a deluxe one, if you take a seat or if you take a sleeper. However, there is something that is for sure, a night bus will be very cold.
I got a sleeper from Bikaner to Udaipur and could not sleep because it was too cold. My jumper and the high vent weren't enough. Innocent as I was in getting this kind of buses, I though it would be better than the government night buses, but I was wrong. So I got to Udaipur with hardly no sleep.
Having learned my lesson, the sleeper from Udaipur to Rajkot, on my way to Diu, I did not hesitate to take my sleeping bag with me. And it turned out to be a good idea. Though it was a better trip, the compartment was smaller, and so, fitting in there, though I'm small enough, wasn't that easy and comfortable.
About local buses, you never know how long is it going to take to get to your destination. If someone says 8 hours, it might as well be 12 or 6. On the case of the bus from Shimla to Dharamsala, it took 2 hours less. On the latest cases, from Rajkot to Diu, it took 3 more hours. As I said, a lottery.
I got a sleeper from Bikaner to Udaipur and could not sleep because it was too cold. My jumper and the high vent weren't enough. Innocent as I was in getting this kind of buses, I though it would be better than the government night buses, but I was wrong. So I got to Udaipur with hardly no sleep.
Having learned my lesson, the sleeper from Udaipur to Rajkot, on my way to Diu, I did not hesitate to take my sleeping bag with me. And it turned out to be a good idea. Though it was a better trip, the compartment was smaller, and so, fitting in there, though I'm small enough, wasn't that easy and comfortable.
About local buses, you never know how long is it going to take to get to your destination. If someone says 8 hours, it might as well be 12 or 6. On the case of the bus from Shimla to Dharamsala, it took 2 hours less. On the latest cases, from Rajkot to Diu, it took 3 more hours. As I said, a lottery.
Preparations
Planned to use Udaipur as base to search for a place to stay in Goa and manage to settle up a volunteering position in the south if possible. Had no real luck on the first but managed to make some advances on the second.
When thinking of a place where to work this things out, I didn't think Udaipur would end up being so expensive and annoying. However, it is a good place to meet people you've left behind. Among others, I run up into Dan and Charlotte just when they where up to see a Rajasthani music and dance concert. The music was good, but the dancing was even better. I was totally astonished to see a woman dance around with ten water pots in her head. Not to mention she danced on top of broken glass. No need for that!
I also ran up with Jeff, whom I had mentioned back in Pushkar. I said I would talk about him later on and now is the time. He might be the chance Goa turns out to be cheaper. He's the person I've seen in India that travels in cheapest of manners. For example, his breakfast consists of a 5 Rs. biscuit and a 5 Rs. chai. So to make a long story short, we both had the same worries about Goa. It all depends on when each of us arrives there, but we talked about sharing a room. We will see what happens...
When thinking of a place where to work this things out, I didn't think Udaipur would end up being so expensive and annoying. However, it is a good place to meet people you've left behind. Among others, I run up into Dan and Charlotte just when they where up to see a Rajasthani music and dance concert. The music was good, but the dancing was even better. I was totally astonished to see a woman dance around with ten water pots in her head. Not to mention she danced on top of broken glass. No need for that!
I also ran up with Jeff, whom I had mentioned back in Pushkar. I said I would talk about him later on and now is the time. He might be the chance Goa turns out to be cheaper. He's the person I've seen in India that travels in cheapest of manners. For example, his breakfast consists of a 5 Rs. biscuit and a 5 Rs. chai. So to make a long story short, we both had the same worries about Goa. It all depends on when each of us arrives there, but we talked about sharing a room. We will see what happens...
Around Udaipur
Udaipur not only ends up with its art and palaces. Jain temples lie expectantly with their intricate carvings in white marble. Forts such as the one in Mount Abu, enhance the highest mountains in the surroundings with their impressive walls and beautiful palaces and temples inside.
I did not have the chance to go to Mt. Abu, but I did go on a day trip to the fort at Kumbalgarh. With a 36 km. wall, it encloses more than 300 temples. We only had an hour to wonder around, and I even missed the inside of its palace, as I got entertained with the landscape the mountains and light there offered.
On this same trip I also had the chance to see one of the best Jain Temples in India, Ranakpur. A fascinating marble building which claims to have 1444 pillars, not one alike. Two meters from the entrance, there's a carved Heaven Tree in the ceiling. Amazing, spectacular are the words that come to my mind, but I know I'm missing something. Clearly, no words I could manage to write with my simple English are enough to describe the magnificence of the work dedicated on the construction of such cult complex.
In respect to the Heaven Tree, I must note that I'm not sure that's the name of the image, but at least that's what the guide around said. Tried to Google for it, unfortunately, with no luck. Should anyone know something about it, please let me know, cause it's too amazing to see that carved in marble and not know for sure what is it about.
I did not have the chance to go to Mt. Abu, but I did go on a day trip to the fort at Kumbalgarh. With a 36 km. wall, it encloses more than 300 temples. We only had an hour to wonder around, and I even missed the inside of its palace, as I got entertained with the landscape the mountains and light there offered.
On this same trip I also had the chance to see one of the best Jain Temples in India, Ranakpur. A fascinating marble building which claims to have 1444 pillars, not one alike. Two meters from the entrance, there's a carved Heaven Tree in the ceiling. Amazing, spectacular are the words that come to my mind, but I know I'm missing something. Clearly, no words I could manage to write with my simple English are enough to describe the magnificence of the work dedicated on the construction of such cult complex.
In respect to the Heaven Tree, I must note that I'm not sure that's the name of the image, but at least that's what the guide around said. Tried to Google for it, unfortunately, with no luck. Should anyone know something about it, please let me know, cause it's too amazing to see that carved in marble and not know for sure what is it about.
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