The Golden Temple

Got to Amritsar after a 6 hour bus ride from Lower Dharamsala. We had just stepped out of the bus when we were surrounded by by at least 8 Indians trying to get us by taxi to all the touristic places to visit. Dan, a tall thin, but well built, English fellow with blond dreads and hippy colorful clothes draw all the attention. This would turn out to be very good on the future.

He, actually, got us a pretty good deal on a taxi, though we refused the hotel they were going to get us in. However, the taxi turned out to a rickshaw. A big one, but still a rickshaw. One that would take ages to get to Atari and that would let us, so kindly, breath the fantastic air of a very polluted Amritsar. Not to say, freeze on the way back from Atari after seeing the closing border show at the border with Pakistan.

So we went to the Golden Temple of the Sikhs as our first stop to get a room and leave our bags, as you can stay in there for free. Sikhs are well known for helping the poor and anyone who needs it, so for that reason everything is free, though a donation is expected. On that basis, we got our dinner for free as well. Just some rice and dal, which was very good to consider that hundreds of people eat there everyday. After eating though, you may help on cleaning some dishes, which is actually very interesting and fun, interacting with the locals that are next to you.

The Golden Temple does receives its name with correctness. Totally yellow and shinny, it brights everything up with every ray of sun. It cries your attention far away from the main entrance dazzling in the middle of a holy artificial pond. A couple of stairs separates you from that holy experience which exclusive for Sikhs and tourists can't approach it. Carps , holy carps I reckon, swim peacefully in its waters while Sikhs take their holy baths as if washing out their sins.

When seen at a distance, your eyes marble at such construction, when you take a closer look, the details in its walls are even better. Details is what Indian architecture is all about. At night, the white marbles of the exterior complex turn to green, blue and pink, ad the Golden Temple acquires even more magnificence, shinning as much in the air as in the water that bath it.

And though all together is extremely beautiful, the amount of energy needed to maintain such beauty at night could probably feed hundreds of people. Four big lights focus the big temple at its four sides, making it shine more spectacularly than during the day. And on this reasoning, I don't even think about all the other lights that color up the rest of the complex, or the speakers that go on none rest all day with prayers and prayers. I guess then, that such magnificence must be over any other essential human need, not only for its beauty but for its religious connotations. After all, all religions are the same.

However, I would not like to be too harsh on the Sikh community, as they really do give shelter and food to many people, even to foreigners like me unable to understand their religious praxis. After all, the same comparison can be made with Times Square or Piccadilly Circus, and nothing is given in exchange to all the homeless that are seen more as a problem than as a way to help.

And so, to their honorable cause, for a free stay and a free meal, I donated 100 Rs, which is not much, but it might help to keep that Golden hope of food and warmth.